Hope everyone is having a great start to the new year! It’s been an interesting first couple weeks in 2020 here, and it was super interesting to experience the Japanese holiday season. For one week over spring break, I stayed with a new host family, getting to know Japanese life from a different perspective. And while I missed my family and friends back home a little extra over the holidays, I had so much fun making new memories and learning about the Japanese traditions.
My family back in California is not Christian, but I’ve always had fun getting into the Christmas spirit. I would wear Santa hats and ugly sweaters to school and lead the family in decorating our Christmas tree. In Japan, Christmas is not a religious holiday either, celebrated mostly because the western world celebrates it. Couples go on dates, children expect presents from Santa, and friends have parties together. Christmas traditions in Japan consist of going to Kentucky Fried Chicken and eating a ‘Christmas cake’ after dinner. Don’t ask me why; people were shocked when I told them that people in the US didn’t eat cake or go to KFC on Christmas day.

Christmas cake at home 
Light display on Hiroshima’s main street throughout December
The more important and familial holiday in Japan is New Years, or お正月(Oshōgatsu). Considered one of the most important holidays of the year, festivities last from the 31st until the 7th, with most hospitals and businesses shutting down until January 4th.
On New Years Eve, or 大晦日(Ōmisoka), the celebrations begin. People eat long soba noodles in the evening as a way to symbolize a long and healthy life. About an hour or two before midnight, Buddhist temples all over Japan begin the tradition of joya no kane: The ringing of the temple bell exactly 108 times. One of the most important Buddhist rituals of the year, each strike of the bell represents the removal of one of the earthly desires in Buddhism. My host family did not visit a temple to watch this process, but I could hear the monotonous toll over the television as we waited for midnight to come.

New Year’s Eve soba noodles 
The bell for joya no kane, people lined up after New Years to strike it themselves
At midnight, instead of drinking champagne or partying with friends, most people quietly wish their family a happy new year(akemashite omedetou) and head to bed. People get up fairly early on New Years Day to enjoy Osechi Ryori, a set of traditional Japanese foods served in beautiful layered bento boxes. Every item of food in this meal represents a certain wish for the coming year. For example, I ate a lot of kuromame, black soy beans, for good health this year. I also ate a lot of taro, because it tasted good, learning afterwards that it represented the wish for many children. And although I couldn’t eat all of the foods as a vegetarian, the presentation was stunning and everything that I could eat was delicious.

Osechi Ryori box 1 
Osechi Ryori box 2 
My plate of veggies 🙂
Sometime during the first few days of the year, people visit a shrine or temple to pray for the year ahead. This tradition is called hatsumode. My host family went on January 3rd, and even then, the shrine was incredibly crowded. When we got to the front of the queue, we threw some coins into the box in front, bowed twice, clapped twice, prayed, and then bowed once again before exiting. On your way out, it’s popular to draw a fortune (omukuji) and exchange a good luck charm (hamaya) to ward off evil spirits. I sadly picked out a moderately bad fortune, so per custum, I tied it to a post at the shrine in hopes that it won’t come true.

The wait outside a shrine, with shops lining the whole way 
Waiting to pray for the coming year 
Leaving my bad luck behind for a good 2020
Other New Years traditions include kakizome, the first calligraphy writing of the year on Jan 2nd; nengajo, new years cards usually featuring the animal of the year; otoshidama, giving money envelopes to children; and fukubukuro, bags full of mystery items from a store at a large discount. Coming of age day, or seijin shiki, is held on the second Monday in Jauary, for people who turn 20 during that year. Plus, with my host dad’s birthday in mid-Jan, the whole month has felt celebratory so far.

Kakizome, with some fun paint backgrounds and mouse stamps 
Nengajo, usually written “Akemashite omedetougozaimasu, kotoshimo yoroshiku oneigaishimasu” meaning Happy New Year, thank you in advance for your support 
My host father’s birthday!
Enjoying the holidays here has been one of my favorite things since arriving in Japan, because of both the rich culture I was able to participate in and the memories I made while doing so. Both my host families shared their own takes on the Japanese traditions and I’m grateful to have experienced them. Can’t wait for the other festivals coming up!




