Holidays in Japan

Hope everyone is having a great start to the new year! It’s been an interesting first couple weeks in 2020 here, and it was super interesting to experience the Japanese holiday season. For one week over spring break, I stayed with a new host family, getting to know Japanese life from a different perspective. And while I missed my family and friends back home a little extra over the holidays, I had so much fun making new memories and learning about the Japanese traditions. 

My family back in California is not Christian, but I’ve always had fun getting into the Christmas spirit. I would wear Santa hats and ugly sweaters to school and lead the family in decorating our Christmas tree. In Japan, Christmas is not a religious holiday either, celebrated mostly because the western world celebrates it. Couples go on dates, children expect presents from Santa, and friends have parties together. Christmas traditions in Japan consist of going to Kentucky Fried Chicken and eating a ‘Christmas cake’ after dinner. Don’t ask me why; people were shocked when I told them that people in the US didn’t eat cake or go to KFC on Christmas day. 

The more important and familial holiday in Japan is New Years, or お正月(Oshōgatsu). Considered one of the most important holidays of the year, festivities last from the 31st until the 7th, with most hospitals and businesses shutting down until January 4th. 

On New Years Eve, or 大晦日(Ōmisoka), the celebrations begin. People eat long soba noodles in the evening as a way to symbolize a long and healthy life. About an hour or two before midnight, Buddhist temples all over Japan begin the tradition of joya no kane: The ringing of the temple bell exactly 108 times. One of the most important Buddhist rituals of the year, each strike of the bell represents the removal of one of the earthly desires in Buddhism. My host family did not visit a temple to watch this process, but I could hear the monotonous toll over the television as we waited for midnight to come. 

At midnight, instead of drinking champagne or partying with friends, most people quietly wish their family a happy new year(akemashite omedetou) and head to bed. People get up fairly early on New Years Day to enjoy Osechi Ryori, a set of traditional Japanese foods served in beautiful layered bento boxes. Every item of food in this meal represents a certain wish for the coming year. For example, I ate a lot of kuromame, black soy beans, for good health this year. I also ate a lot of taro, because it tasted good, learning afterwards that it represented the wish for many children. And although I couldn’t eat all of the foods as a vegetarian, the presentation was stunning and everything that I could eat was delicious. 

Sometime during the first few days of the year, people visit a shrine or temple to pray for the year ahead. This tradition is called hatsumode. My host family went on January 3rd, and even then, the shrine was incredibly crowded. When we got to the front of the queue, we threw some coins into the box in front, bowed twice, clapped twice, prayed, and then bowed once again before exiting. On your way out, it’s popular to draw a fortune (omukuji) and exchange a good luck charm (hamaya) to ward off evil spirits. I sadly picked out a moderately bad fortune, so per custum, I tied it to a post at the shrine in hopes that it won’t come true. 

Other New Years traditions include kakizome, the first calligraphy writing of the year on Jan 2nd; nengajo, new years cards usually featuring the animal of the year; otoshidama, giving money envelopes to children; and fukubukuro, bags full of mystery items from a store at a large discount. Coming of age day, or seijin shiki, is held on the second Monday in Jauary, for people who turn 20 during that year. Plus, with my host dad’s birthday in mid-Jan, the whole month has felt celebratory so far. 

Enjoying the holidays here has been one of my favorite things since arriving in Japan, because of both the rich culture I was able to participate in and the memories I made while doing so. Both my host families shared their own takes on the Japanese traditions and I’m grateful to have experienced them. Can’t wait for the other festivals coming up!

School Daze

Having been in Hiroshima for a little over three months now, I’ve acclimated to the initially wild cultural differences and have settled into a comfortable routine. However, school in Japan still manages to surprise me with culture shocks every once in a while. There are plenty of differences between high school in Japan and high school in the US, but there are also some key similarities that have helped me adjust. And while I don’t know if I can encompass everything about school in Japan into an article, these are some of the observations I’ve made since joining it. 

The structure is split up differently

In Japan, school grades are split up in the same way as the US: 小学校,or primary school; 中学校,or middle school; and 高校,or high school. Primary school is grades 1-6, middle school is 7-9, and high school is an optional (although almost everyone attends) 10-12. In Japan, however, the numbering starts over when you enter a new school. For example, if you were the equivalent of an 11th grader (like me!), you would say you were in high school, year two. Another adjustment for me was students choose one of two paths in high school: 文系, humanities, or 理系, sciences. While everyone still has overlapping classes like PE, math, English, and history, 文系 students take additional literature, culture, and Japanese classes while 理系 students take chemistry, physics, biology, and extra math. All of these subjects mean students are taking about 12-15 classes a semester. And as there are only 7 periods a day, classes are scheduled by week instead. 

As an exchange student, I had a little more flexibility in my courses and am not in either pathway. I take the basic courses with everyone, as well as physics, chemistry, Japanese culture, calligraphy, and about 4 different English classes. I’m not used to the sheer number of subjects I’m taking at the same time, even if some of mine are less intense like cooking or calligraphy. Add in the fact that they’re all taught in Japanese, and I am struggling academically. My average test score is probably around 10-20%. Yikes. It is definitely an exhausting schedule, but all the material is interesting and it’s helping me learn Japanese faster! 

Grades in school don’t really matter

Having just gone through the college application grind before my exchange, I was curious about the process in Japan. I was surprised to learn that the grade you get in class or on a final has little impact on your passing the class or getting into college. Instead, the grade is more of a reflection of where you are in the material and what you need to study. The only thing that really matters for admission is a college entrance exam taken in the last year of high school. Students take one universal test, the center shiken, and their score defines which colleges they can apply to. Then, they take a specific exam for the college they want to attend. If they don’t pass, they take the test of their second choice college, and so on. These tests are insanely hard – it’s not uncommon for students who didn’t receive the score they wanted to take one or two “gap years” after high school and spend the whole year studying before trying again. 

Personally, I don’t like the heavy weight placed solely on test taking, although it is fairly equitable. While I also can’t say I enjoyed having to write a million essays for my own college applications, I do believe students are made up of a lot more than a test score, and I appreicate that the US system gives students the chance to express that. On the other hand, I do love the idea of grades in school not counting for much. Everyone in the US stresses over getting the perfect GPA (I got my first grey hairs from seeing my second quarter photography grade). Eliminating grades might help students learn for the sake of learning and improve mental health. 

Rules are much stricter, but looser at the same time.

Surprisingly, with the college entrance exam being as important as it is, students in the first two years of high school (and below) are pretty relaxed during school. I had expected Japanese school to be very rigid in its rules, with strict teachers and students studying all day. It is true that Japan has much stricter school policies in terms of uniform and conduct. Things like jewelry and dyed hair are prohibited. Phones are taken by the homeroom teacher in the morning and returned at the end of school. At the beginning and end of every class, students and teachers bow to each other in a sequence led by a classroom leader (close your eyes, open your eyes, attention, bow). Students are responsible for mopping and organizing their homeroom every day after school. 

The list could go on, but at the same time, consequences for misbehaving students is usually nothing more than a talking to. Students running into class late(even with 10 minute passing periods! Even I’m not late!), not having done their homework, talking to friends during a lecture, or even taking a nap during lectures is common. These things would normally qualify for a detention or at least a warning in the US, but teachers in Japan simply ignore it, or at most, politely and sternly tell the student to stop. Coming in with ideas and stereotypes about Japanese schooling, I was shocked by the goofing around and carefree behaviors many students exhibited. 

It took a while for me to get used to wearing the same clothes every day, and while I didn’t normally wear jewelry or makeup to school in the US, it was weird not being allowed to. The biggest adjustment was turning in my phone each day, which was hard not only because I’m a teenager and addicted to my phone, but also because I had been heavily relying on it for google translate. It also limited my ability to take pictures of the school and friends. I have to admit though, not having my phone forced me to stumble through talking to people and notice all the things I’m writing about!

Kids will be kids

This brings me to my final point, something I really should’ve realized before spending a few months in school and reflecting on it to write this blog post; teenagers are teenagers everywhere in the globe. I was so worried about the different social norms, language barrier, varying interests, and cultural differences, that I didn’t stop to think about how the first question my new girlfriends asked me was, ‘Do you have a BOYFRIEND?!’ before proceeding to usher me around the floor pointing out their crushes/significant others. Focusing so hard on the Japanese language and society has stopped me from giggling about youtube videos and bad hair days with my peers. Making a funny face in a selfie is the same here as it is with my friends in California. And realizing that has bridged a gap in my relationships that my language alone was struggling to bridge. It’s still hard to have in depth conversations, but connecting with people over a laugh or a game is what makes school fun.

My homeroom class, Grade 5 Class 2, at the cultural festival!